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February 23, 2015

The Traditional Arts in Vietnam

Traditional Arts-1In addition to experiencing a culture through food, language, history, and architecture, learning about its traditional arts also gives travelers a glimpse into every day life. A visit to Vietnam is filled with opportunities to witness the local people’s artistry in a respectful and dignified way.

 
While in Hanoi, we did a Vespa tour which included a visit to a boat building yard, a family who made sleep mats for a living, and another family who made rice crackers. The tour company pays the families’ fair wages (most of whom barely make a living wage by selling their products) to allow the tourists to see them making their products. We were able to participate in making sleep mats and rice crackers. The lovely women who dedicated their life to their particular art form made it look much easier than it was.

We also admired the lanterns in Hoi An’s ancient town. Lantern making is a Vietnamese craft that goes back 400 years. The spirit and culture of Hoi An is embedded in this art. There are about thirty lantern making businesses in Hoi An that contribute to the local economy. A visit to Hoi An must include a walk through the lantern district at night.

 
In Hanoi, we attended a water puppet theater performance, which Chris and I enjoyed as much as the kids did. Water puppetry originated in the 11th century in the Red River delta. The themes of the shows are usually about rural life and Vietnamese folklore. The colors and movements of in the shows are mesmerizing. We saw water puppet theaters in every city in Vietnam we visited, so no matter where you visit in this country you have an opportunity to witness this traditional art.

 
During your travels, what has been one of your favorite traditional art experience? Let us know in the comments.

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February 17, 2015

Halong Bay

 By Noemi Gamel

 

Halong Bay-3We have not had great experiences when it comes to boats on our RTW. Between awful sea sickness on the Drake passage on the way to Antarctica, cold winds in Milford Sound, and larger than expected waves on the ferry between Tahiti and Moorea, I was a bit skeptical about doing a cruise on Halong Bay during the Vietnamese winter. I am glad that Chris insisted and I gave in.

 
After witnessing the power of Iguazu Falls, the striking beauty of Antarctic glaciers, and the raw vastness of Salar Uyuni, I thought there was not much in the world that could impress me. Halong Bay proved me wrong, and it deserves its place among the natural wonders of Asia.

 
The bay is studded with massive limestone formations rising above the waters. I have never seen anything like it, but as we sailed in our “junk” boat among the limestone giants surrounded by the mist, I felt the same reverence I did for the landscape in Antarctica. We spent the weekend walking or kayaking through caves, visiting a floating village inhabited by the boat people, and enjoying stunning vistas from the deck of our junk.

 
One of our most memorable moments was kayaking through the “Night Cave”, which was completely dark. We had to paddle upstream through a river within the bowels of the cave. There were times I wanted to turn back, but pushed on for fear of mockery by Kara and Tristan. Our arms felt like noodles at the end. We were rewarded when we spilled out the other end of the cave onto an isolated lake with beautiful views. Talk about an adventure!

 
I highly recommend a trip to Halong Bay if you are in Vietnam. The waters are calm (no sea sickness!) and even in the winter, the weather is nice.

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February 9, 2015

Hoi An Vespa Tour: A Different Perspective

By Noemi Gamel
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For the last seven months, with the exception of the time we rented a car during our three weeks in New Zealand, we have been exploring the different towns we have visited on foot. We occasionally take a car (or tuk tuk!) to a particular site, but for the most part, we go to restaurants, town centers, and tourist sites by walking. While this is great exercise and allows us to experience the local culture in a slow, intimate setting, it also means our radius of exploration is rather small. We decided to do something a little different in Hoi An, the foodie capital of Vietnam. We went on a Vespa tour. This is exactly what it sounds like. Four young men on Vespas picked us up from the house we rented in Hoi An, we climbed on the back of the bike, and then off we went! 

As soon as the Vespa took off with me clinging to the passenger handle for dear life, I thought I had made a mistake. The Vespa rode a lot faster than I anticipated. Even though I was not the one actually driving it, I felt unstable and wobbly. I was afraid we would hit a pedestrian or car. I kept having visions of Kara or Tristan’s Vespa crashing and the kids flying off onto the street. My pediatrics training came back to rear its ugly head with full force! Fortunately, none of my fears came to pass. We all wore helmets and our drivers were safety-conscious. After we left the city, we explored the countryside, including the rice fields and small fishing villages near Hoi An.

We visited a family that made sleep mats and another that made rice crackers for a living. They graciously allowed us into their homes and shared their way of life with us. Our guides also took us to a local Vietnamese coffee shop and then we had lunch at a seafood restaurant on the beach. By trying a different mode of transport, our world opened up. We saw places and met people we would not have done so if we had stuck to our typical routine of walking and occasionally taking a taxi to a further destination. Our Vespa guides/drivers were nice, funny, and professional. If you are ever in Vietnam, consider trying a Vespa tour. You will not be disappointed.

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February 2, 2015

Humans of Cambodia

By Noemi Gamel
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Cambodia has carved a special place in my heart. Its raw nature, resilience, and warmth remind me of Bolivia. We have been fortunate enough to get to know some of the people during our time in Cambodia, and we want to share their unique stories with you.

Mao was our tuk tuk driver for four days while we were in Siem Reap. We met him when he drove us from the bus station to our homestay and offered to be our driver for the rest of our stay. He was a soft-spoken young man who was kind, helpful, and patient with us. He joined us for lunch one day and shared his story. Mao is the youngest of seven children. He is 32 years old and has been a tuk tuk driver for 15 years. He left school at age 16 years because his family was very poor and he needed to work to help them survive. He spoke English well, and he said he learned it from working with the tourists. He never had any formal English lessons.

Sinath was our guide at the War Museum Cambodia in Siem Reap. Like many stories in Cambodia, Sinath’s is both heartbreaking and uplifting. Sinath went out to find food for his starving family one day when he was 9 years old. When he returned to his village, his entire family (both parents, 2 brothers, and 1 sister) had all been killed by the Khmer Rouge. He lived on the streets on his own for four years until he finally joined the Khmer Rouge with other child soldiers.

Sinath said he joined Pol Pot’s regime in exchange for food and clothing because he was starving on the streets. He says the Khmer Rouge recruited children as soldiers because they were easier to brainwash. In 1979, Sinath joined the Cambodian Army to fight the Khmer Rouge. He fought to liberate Cambodia from the regime responsible for the horrific genocide until 1988, when he lost his right leg to a landmine. Sinath was wounded 10 separate times but miraculously survived. He has been working as a guide at the War Museum to preserve the memory of all his friends and family who have died because of the war. Listening to Sinath tell his story brought tears to my eyes.

Rithy was our landlord in Phnom Phen. He is a multi-lingual engineer with a highly entrepreneurial spirit. He designed the beautiful apartment we rented from him as well as the restaurant he owns and runs with his chef wife. We loved talking to him and his kids, who lived in the apartment below us. They were friendly and proud of how far Cambodia has come in such a short time.

Cambodia has endured some extreme hardships over the past few decades. Despite these hardships, it is a country full of amazing, warm people.  We were happy to meet some of them and to learn the details of their stories.

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January 26, 2015

The Temples of Angkor

Angkor-1By Noemi Gamel

There is something about temples that draws us to them, no matter what our religious or spiritual stance. We spent two day visiting the temples of Angkor in Siem Reap, Cambodia. We liked some of them so much we visited them twice, such as Angkor Wat (the centerpiece of all the structures) and Ta Prohm (the jungle temple)

Angkor Wat is the best known temple in Cambodia. It is even featured on the Cambodian flag. We learned that Angkor Wat was built in a swift 38 years by the power of one million people and 4,000 elephants. We spent two hours walking through the causeways, open rooms, shrines, and stairways. We were humbled to find that some of the visitors were not simply there to admire the architecture or take in the historical value: they were there to worship. They burned incense and kneeled before the Buddhas in reverence. While I will not pretend that I understand the features or history of Buddhism, I appreciate its beauty and simplicity.

Ta Prohm was one of my favorite temples. It is over 900 years old and has been partly reclaimed by the surrounding jungle. Seeing the trees breaking the stone and intertwine themselves as part of the temple’s architecture is like looking into a time capsule.
I think we learn a lot about a culture when you look at its history and architecture. You learn what they cherish the most. Visiting the temples of Angkor was like peeking in the window of Cambodian culture.

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January 19, 2015

Thai Cooking Class

By Noemi Gamel

Thai Cooking-3One of the best ways to experience a culture is through its food. While simply eating the cuisine is fun, learning to cook local foods allows you to take the cultural experience to a higher level.

While in Bangkok, we took a Thai cooking class. At first, I was concerned that Tristan, who is eight years old and only recently learned how to work the toaster, would be bored or hesitant to participate. I was wrong. Kara and Tristan not only had a blast during the class, they completed all the activities without help.

Our instructor, Koong, was fun and had a knack for engaging all the participants, including Kara and Tristan, who happened to be the only children in the class. We started by visiting the fresh market to learn about the types of ingredients that are essential in Thai cooking. We then walked to the school, where we prepared five dishes: Tom Yum soup, pad Thai, a green curry dish, chicken or tofu salad, and mango with sticky rice. We were able to do so much because the staff had the ingredients already chopped and prepared, so all we had to do was the “fun” part of mixing and cooking everything together.

Learning to cook local cuisine is a window into some of the cultural color. For example, we learned from Koong that Thai brides-to-be impress their future mother-in-law by vigorously pounding the curry paste with the mortar and pestle. If the bride does not hit the pestle hard against the mortar, this is a sign she is lazy. Take note, ladies! She also said that Thai cooking is influenced by Chinese and Indian cuisines, which is an insight to its crossroads location both geographically and culturally.

We returned to our apartment with stuffed bellies and a cookbook of all the recipes we prepared. I cannot wait to get home to try my hand at Thai cooking.

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January 12, 2015

New Zealand: We Visited Hobbiton

By: Noemi Gamel

Hobbiton 2Before coming to New Zealand, I was secretly ashamed that I was most looking forward to visiting the Hobbiton movie set on the North Island. My shame diffused when I saw the safety video on the Air New Zealand, which featured a Middle-Earth theme complete with hobbits, dwarves, and promotional words by Frodo himself, Elijah Wood.

To further add to our excitement about visiting Middle Earth, I mean, New Zealand, we watched the third installment of the franchise The Hobbit in Queenstown. When we finally arrived for our tour of the Hobbiton movie sets, we could barely contain our excitement.

The kids took a picture with Gandalf and then we were taken by bus to the sets. It was truly a magical experience. The hobbit holes were delightfully detailed. We learned Peter Jackson’s secret of forced perspective to make the hobbits look small and Gandalf look tall. We saw different sections of the set where various scenes were filmed, including when Gandalf and Frodo first enter Hobbiton at the start of The Fellowship of the Ring; the scene of Bilbo’s party under the birthday tree, and the scene when young Bilbo in the first Hobbit movie runs through a field to catch up to the dwarves after changing his mind about going on the adventure.

I am a casual Tolkien fan. I read The Hobbit as a teenager, but I have not read The Lord of the Rings trilogy. I have watched all six of Peter Jackson’s films. Walking through the set made me appreciate the time, effort, and investment that the whole country put forth to make these films happen. No trip to New Zealand should go without a visit to Hobbiton

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January 5, 2015

New Zealand: Days of Old and New

 

By: Chris Gamel

Maori 1New Zealand has embraced the marriage of the two predominating cultures that make up its people: the Maori who arrived by boat approximately 1,000 years ago and the Europeans who arrived 600 years later. In order to experience both cultures, we visited a Maori village one evening and then spent the following morning at the Agrodome, a exhibitionary a sheep and beef farm.

We drove from Tauranga, the small town where we were renting a house, to Rotoroa, the stronghold for the Maori people on the North Island. From the information center, we were taken by bus to the Tamaki Maori village about thirty minutes away. We picked the company because it is owned and operated by Maori people. The tour essentially mimicks the process of one tribe (the tourists) visiting a traditional Maori tribe in their village, beginning with the startling challenge of peace, the sharing of unique cultural elements, a performance of traditional songs and dances, and ending with a delicious traditional Maori dinner of “hangi”, which is essentially meat and vegetables steam cooked in an underground pit. The experience was both educational and respectful of the Maori culture.

The following day, we returned to Rotoroa to spend the morning at a working sheep, beef, and agricultural farm that is open to tours. We watched a sheep show where they introduced us to the nineteen types of sheep found throughout the world and culminated with a sheep sheering demonstration. We also briefly saw a sheepdog at work, herding and managing a group of sheep around a field. In addition, we received a tour of the farm where we saw the paddocks housing sheep, cattle, alpacas, and deer, and we saw the orchards of kiwi fruits, olives, and manuka. To further highlight the continued marriage of the old and “new” cultures in New Zealand, we were surprised to learn that the Agrodome had actually been bought by a Maori family two years ago.

While New Zealand is known for hobbits and high-adrenaline  adventure travel, it is also a mecca of cultural experiences. If you are planning a trip to New Zealand, make sure you take the time to learn about the Maori and the European cultures that make up its people.

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December 29, 2014

The Freedom of Driving

By: Noemi Gamel

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During the 5 months that we traveled in South America, we made use of public transport in many of the cities we visited. We also walked a whole lot. In New Zealand, where we were planning on going to many different places that were quite far, we decided to rent a car. Doing so has opened up a completely new world of possibilities.

When we were bound to walking and public transport, our world was small. We went to shops, restaurants, and sights that were within walking distance of the apartment or hostel where we were staying. Every once in a while we would take a bus or taxi somewhere further away, but for the most part, we stayed within a confined perimeter. When I booked accommodations, I always asked if there were restaurants, a grocery store, bakery, and laundry service within walking distance.

Now that we have a car, our world has expanded. It doesn’t matter if our accommodation is farther from the town center or even in the outskirts, because we can easily drive to town for eating, shopping, or sight seeing. We can also buy groceries in larger amounts, because transporting them from one place to another is easy. You can’t exactly do that when you are traveling by public bus. We can try restaurants that are farther away from us. We have more options regarding the sights we visit.

The other difference I noticed is the way we take in the views. When we traveled by bus, I felt like I needed to entertain myself to pass the time, whether by watching a movie on the iPAD or reading (if the road was not to windy). Now that we are driving, I don’t feel the need to pass the time doing anything else other than enjoying the view outside the window. I think it’s because we are spending time as a family in the car, and we feel more inclined to spend time together. On a bus, you feel more isolated and you don’t want to talk so as to not disturb the other passengers.

Having a car has given us other freedoms too. If we want to stop to admire a view or take photos of wildflowers on the side of the road, we can do that. We have done both. In fact, each of the images accompanying this blog post were taken because of opportunities presented by driving.

When we return to the US, I am committed to taking more road trips. The road to freedom is wide open.

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December 22, 2014

Sometimes It’s OK To Splurge And Do Nothing


By: Noemi Gamel

Long-term travel is not always glamorous. I don’t want to sound ungrateful, or as if I am complaining about this wonderful opportunity to travel around the world for one year, but the fact is that traveling constantly gets tiresome sometimes. We have no structured routine. Each time we arrive somewhere new we have to figure out where to buy groceries, where to do laundry, how to use public transportation, and I need to learn how to find my way around the kitchen. When you are on a long-term travel adventure, especially when on a budget, taking time to do nothing but rest and relax is essential in order to give yourself a respite from the stress of travel.

Fortunately, we found a way to do just that. We decided to split our flight between Easter Island and New Zealand with a one-week stop in Moorea, French Polynesia. It was a rough decision, but someone has to do it!

We spent the first three days in a cabin away from the tourist area, but then splurged for four nights in an overwater bungalow at one of the resorts in Moorea. We spent the week doing nothing but resting on the beach or by the pool. Beautiful sunsets, breathtaking vistas, and bright fish among the coral were our entertainment. We totally blew our budget, but we did not regret it. Of course, when you are on a long-term trip, only you can make decisions about your budget, but honestly, but sometimes you need to give yourself the wiggle room for one splurging adventure

 

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